Are marshmallows the new cupcakes? How gourmet twists on the childhood classic are taking New York's artisan bakeries by storm
By Daisy Dumas
Last updated at 12:16 AM on 13th January 2012
Posh puffs: Gourmet 'mallows are the next big thing, says a New York baker
They're a quintessential component of a childhood mug of hot chocolate or a campfire sing-song.
Now, marshmallows are undergoing something of a fashionable makeover, with artisan marshmallows forecasted to be the sweet food fad of the year.
And if any were in doubt as to the fluffy sweets' 'next big thing' status, look no further than trendy Manhattan baking boutique, Three Tarts Bakery.
'Tart' and chef Maria D’Urso told New York Times that 'marshmallows are the new cupcakes.'
At her Chelsea bakery, the team make cinnamon, strawberry basil and chocolate rosemary varieties, elevating the classic children's favourite to suitably grown-up fare.
Having crept into artisan circles last year, 2012 looks set to see the sugar and gelatine pillows take over the mainstream - their popularity defying some predictions.
At soapbox.com, Chicago chefs last May doubted whether the trend would take off - with Sandra Holl of Floriole cafe and Bakery saying she had a 'hard time' believing they'd trump cupcakes and Paul Fehribach of Big Jones restaurant questioning their versatility.
But Three Tarts certainly aren't alone - hip New York bakeries Baked and soon-to-open Robicellis, the Times points out, also make gourmet puffs.
There is even a forthcoming marshmallow art exhibition by puff forerunners, The City Bakery, reports the newspaper.
And the trend is fast-spreading.
Pillowy puffs: Artisan marshmallows are storming gourmet bakeries across America - and are said to be the next cupcake
At 240Sweet in Columbus, Indiana, chefs turn out batches of hand-made avocado and lime, cherry limeaid, pineapple and mango, red bean and sesame and even chicken and beef flavour puffs.
Their exhaustive list of flavours is imaginative and as far from a bag of campfire marshmallows as is possible.
At Longman & Eagle restaurant in Chicago, a savoury marshmallow was added to the menu last autumn, while sweet marshmallows as part of desserts and adorning American sweet potato dishes have perhaps never truly gone out of fashion.
ABC's The Chew featured a whopping two-pound s'mores-flavoured marshmallow by Plush Puffs as part of their feature looking at the newest sweet fashion just days ago.
The programme said the trend follows from 2007's molecular gastronomy, 2008's cookies, 2009's pies, 2010's meatballs and 2011's cupcake obsessions.
HOME-MADE MARSHMALLOWS RECIPE
INGREDIENTS
- Confectioners' sugar, for dusting
- 1 x 5oz jar liquid glucose
- 14oz white superfine sugar
- ¼ tsp sea salt
- 1 tsp vanilla extract
- 8 gelatine leaves
- You will need a jam thermometer and a suitable tin or dish measuring 8" x 12". Line the base and sides of the
tin with baking paper and dust the inside liberally with confectioners' sugar. - Place the whole gelatine leaves in a large bowl with 1 cup water (if you have a food mixer with a bowl and whisk attachment, use this).
- Place the glucose, superfine sugar and salt in a small pan with 1 cup water, bring to the boil and stir to dissolve the sugar, then simmer over a lively heat for 15-20 minutes until you reach 250F or ‘hard ball’ on a jam thermometer.
- Pour this mixture into the bowl with the gelatine and water and stir until it dissolves. Now whisk for about 10 minutes at a high speed until the solution turns thick, white and moussey, the consistency of thick custard and double its original volume, adding the vanilla 5 minutes before the end. Pour into the prepared tin and chill uncovered for 12 hours or overnight until set to a firm marshmallow consistency.
- Liberally dust a worksurface with confectioners' sugar, turn out the marshmallow paper-side up and carefully peel this off using a knife to help with the sides: it will be very sticky and shiny. Either cut into squares or use a 1.5" biscuit cutter for round marshmallows.
- To finish, dust the marshmallows in a bowl of confectioners' sugar and arrange on a wire rack, then repeat this twice more at hourly intervals until the surface feels papery and dry.
- Store loosely covered at room temperature. If necessary you can re-dust the marshmallows shortly before eating.
Recipe by You Magazine's Annie Bell
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